Master Cutter

Jackson Chu trained a lot of master cutters in Manila. We are glad to say one of them is back with us after a long time hiatus in the tailoring business. Trained both by the late Mr. Chu for the Shanghai cut and also for the Italian cut which may I add are two different styles of tailoring a suit. Although Neopolitan tailors are best known for bespoke tailoring as well as Saville Row tailors, here in Manila, british tailoring wasnt as popular as the Italian way of making suits. Must be the weather. Ne’r the less,  as the tailors in manila, may they be Italian or Shanghai trained, are going extinct, Jackson tailors is happy to welcome back one of their best tailors. Having done one very rare pattern for one of our RTW lines, we are very excited that he came out of his retirement from bespoke tailoring and has begun working wonders for our clientele.

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Suit pants

Suit pants or formal pants the most appropriate piece of bottomwear for job interviews, office, and formal parties. Make  sure you read these tips before shopping. Here are some interesting tips on  everything you should know regarding suit pants before making your final  purchase.

• First, men’s suit pants include three important parts the drape, the pleats,  and the cuffs.
• When trying on different suit pants make sure that the drape of the pants  which is over your lower body is smooth and floats softly over your legs.
• Selecting low rise or high rise? If you are a tall man then the better  option for you will be a higher rise and the opposite goes for men that are  shorter. The length of the rise is an important part since it complements your  height.
• Suits pants have three types of pleats. One is the single pleat, double  pleat, and pleat-less which means flat front.
• Last but not least are the cuffs. When selecting your suit pants make sure  that the cuffs have upwards folds at the end of the pants. Suit pants with this  style are recommended by fashion experts for taller men.

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MENSWEAR VINTAGE CLASSIC REDUX OR JUST PLAIN STYLE STAGNATION

Why fix what isn’t broken? They rationalized.

So menswear has been called vintage classic and redux for oh centuries?

All we ever do is just rename the styles or delete the new ones to retain those which works, thus evolution in menswear is stagnant and we are left with Kurt andersen’s  wrath                                      

“Look at people on the street and in malls—jeans and sneakers remain the standard uniform

           for all ages, as they were in  2002, 1992, and 1982 .                        

                  i feel as if the whole culture is stoned,                                    listening to an LP that’s been skipping for decades, playing the

                                         same groove over and over. Nobody has the wit

                                                                or gumption to stand up

                                                                      LIFT THE STYLUS.”                                                                                                                     

                                               – Kurt Andersen in the January Vanity Fair

Well Misterrrr Andersen here’s why.

Money.  a simple hypothesis of what went wrong

  It was the innovative craftsmanship turning in billions of money making billionnaires turning them into conservatives killing culture in the end. again my opening sentence  

            WHY FIX SOMETHING WHICH AINT BROKE?

Technology has been catapulting since the turn of the century but menswear remains vintage.

A men’s fashion writer compared and blames it on and to movie/tv producers who are obviously thrifty in cultural evolution rehashing tv shows like charlies angels or movies like batman. Good point. Chrysler automobiles havent hired any new designers for their automobiles, although with that I contest, I like em vintage chrysler look AND I LOVE BATMAN. but …but

Neverthless  for us designers and producers and elements of culture, we are it!!!!               

            The voice of our generation. Classics are good, but lets amp it up somewhat!!!                            

                        Give us some credible distinctive persona from our past.                     

                                  We have a responsibility here people,             

          why dont we use the 12/2012 deadline to have a sit down with our right brain and

                         make/do something original.

                                                    Like uh wear something original.

Follow us this year when we come up with new designs for you.

The tuxedo barong is just one of our contribution.

We commend Danny Soler for taking the leap with us wearing the open tux on his big day.

Fancy Pants

Comfortable pants is a must for most of us. Jeans are a staple, always the choice for dressing down Fridays. And if you are from the gen x era having to be in the “in” meant dowdy below the waist jeans. Sad right? But you see the ghetto look is a must for most American teens back then, looking dowdy somehow connotes fierceness, and thus the dowdy pants from rappers became famous. Mtv brought to us this fashion sense and so most of us gen xers cultivated the need to wear dowdy, and wearing fitting clothes meant claustrophobia or growing up bringing out rebellion. But not to go too far in the human psyche, it basically means us gen xers weren’t really taught the proper way to fit our pants.

 

We need comfortable pants, if we are to smile through out the day in a 50 employee office. But it shouldn’t be loose. So when we buy trousers, chinos, khakis or jeans what kind of fit are we looking for? Here is a broken down list of tips:

 

–         man with a belly should wear high rise draping from his middle rather than letting the belly spill out over a low-rise waistband

–         The cuff’s  on the bottom, (near ankle) should touch your shoes’ uppers, it must not touch the ground as we were lead to believe as fashionable.

–         Most standard is it brushes the top edge of the sole at the back for slight break in front

–         Shorter men , just brushing the tops of the shoes can look better allowing one to show off his socks and shoes, just a tip.

–         A pinoy man do better without cuffs on their trousers, so one must consider having them altered without the top stitching being shown. Just a tip again.

–         But should a Filipino man opt for it it should be in proportion to their stature 1¼”up to1½”.

–         While the Filipino man over six feet take cuffs 1¾”-2″.